How to Party With the British Royals
Four of the most festive events in the British Royal calendar are held in late May and June. Here’s how to join the jolly good fun
QUEEN ELIZABETH II recognized her 90th birthday, April 21, with a tour through her Windsor Castle neighborhood, standing in a custom, convertible, diesel-hybrid Land Rover, waving to fans who lined the streets. As one does. But in time-honored tradition, the Queen’s “official” birthday will be more extravagantly celebrated—especially given that it’s the big 9-0—during Trooping the Colour, one of a series of annual royal events in and around London held in the next few weeks.
Full disclosure: The Queen and I go way back. When my mother was a 17-year-old in London, studying to be a Montessori teacher, the young Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret occasionally popped into her classroom with their governess. A few years ago, my mother, 93 at the time, sent a note to the Queen reminding her that she and Margaret “were truly beautiful young ladies with lovely manners, complexions and style.” Lest she’d forgotten. “Her Majesty thought it so kind of you to write. Your letter evoked many fond childhood memories,” began a gracious reply from the Palace. It was touching that the U.K.’s longest-reigning monarch (64 years) found time to respond, albeit by proxy of a Lady-in-Waiting, given the 16 realms she rules—not to mention all the corgis. No wonder Her Majesty is so beloved. And no wonder 25,000 tickets to her birthday fête this weekend at Windsor vanished in five hours. General admission tickets for the other top festivities this spring—listed here—are also sold out, or may be soon, but don’t lose heart:Jane McCrum, the well-connected owner of In any Event ( inanyeventtours.net ), a bespoke tour service in London, can often secure last-minute entry for her clients. Some events can also be experienced from nearby, without a ticket. And there’s always HRM’s 91st!
Chelsea Flower Show
May 24—28
At the world’s most prestigious garden show, held at the Royal Hospital Chelsea since 1862, a photo exhibit and floral arch will salute the Queen’s 90th. A stunning variety of walkable show gardens are created by established and cutting-edge designers, and more than 100 exhibits—including a fully landscaped, life-size train station—are packed into the 123,000-square-foot Grand Pavilion. If it’s souvenirs you’re after, everything from carnivorous plants to garden clogs are on hand. The opening night gala tickets, from about $360 each, are gone, but general admission, from about $48, is still a possibility(rhs.org.uk).
Trooping the Colour, aka The Queen’s Birthday Parade
June 11
Two of the Queen’s longtime loves combine for this spectacular pageant near Buckingham Palace: horses and the military. She still rides, still without a helmet, and the Queen, who was trained as a mechanic and driver, is the only living head of state to have served in World War II. Her Household Division, the seven regiments devoted to her protection, assemble on a wide expanse called Horse Guards Parade for the trooping, an elaborate ceremony that honors the colour, or flag, of a selected regiment—this year that of the Coldstream Guard. Four hundred musicians, brass and drums abounding, and the Household Cavalry on their Irish steeds add to the fanfare. The royal family arrives in style, clip-clopping down The Mall from Buckingham Palace in open carriages, the Queen with a bearskin-hatted Prince Philip at her side. After receiving a royal salute, she inspects her smartly attired officers (red jackets, gold buttons, bearskin hats galore), and surveys the trooping ceremony. Upon the parade’s conclusion, she joins the royal family, four generations of it, on the Palace balcony where they watch a Royal Air Force flyby, dozens of planes streaming the colors of the British flag. Tickets for the seated stands (about $44) for this year are sold out, but you can catch the proceedings (and dress rehearsals on May 28 and June 4) from The Mall or in St. James Park. For next year, send a request in writing between January 1 and February 28 (householddivision.org.uk).
The Order of the Garter Parade
June 13
The Queen and her Knights and Ladies of the Garter—the Princes Charles, Edward, Andrew and William and Princess Anne among them—are all smiles as they spill out of the annual ceremony in St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle. No doubt it’s a happy day for the exclusive club, but anyone would be hard put to keep a straight face in that get-up—voluminous blue velvet robes; black velvet Tudor bonnets festooned with white plumes; gold tassels, red sashes and gilded ropes crisscrossing about the torso. The Order of the Garter, the realm’s oldest order of chivalry, dates from 1348 and is bestowed at the Queen’s discretion for services rendered to the Crown or the realm. Ticket-holders are admitted to the castle grounds where they picnic and watch the procession to St. George’s Chapel. Tickets are sold out for this year, but the service, rich with choral music, is relayed by loudspeaker. Pop the to-do on your 2017 calendar and email garterday.info@.gsx.gov.uk.
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Royal Ascot
June 14—18
Marked by outrageous headgear, equestrian excellence and Pimm’s-fuelled social one-upmanship, the Royal Ascot races span five days. Tuesday is typically the most sedate, Wednesday is biggest for betting, Thursday is Ladies Day (more hats!), and Friday and Saturday draw a younger crowd. Two levels of tickets include the Windsor Enclosure (from about $50 a person) and the Queen Anne Enclosure, a.k.a the Grandstand (from about $108, dress code requires matching suit and tie for the gents, hats for the ladies). But where you really want to be is the exclusive, members-and-their-esteemed-guests-only Royal Enclosure. That’s where you’ll have the best views of the track and, more importantly, the royals. Windsor and Queen Anne tickets are available at ascot.co.uk . You’ll have to hit up your peerage pals for a chance inside the Royal Enclosure. Good luck with that.